Almost nobody reads this part of the paperwork, and it’s the part that decides what happens if a dresser gets gouged. Here’s the distinction that matters: movers sell valuation, which is a level of carrier liability. Insurance companies sell insurance. They are not the same product.

Released value protection — the free default

Under federal rules for interstate moves, released value protection is included at no extra charge and pays 60 cents per pound, per article. A 40-pound flat-screen worth $1,200 is worth $24 under released value. If you sign nothing else, this is what you have.

Full value protection — the real coverage

With full value protection, the carrier is liable for the repair, replacement, or cash settlement of a damaged or lost article. It costs extra, the amount depends on your declared shipment value, and deductibles vary. For a household of furniture and electronics it is almost always the right purchase. FMCSA explains both options in plain language on its Protect Your Move site.

Released value Full value protection
Cost Included Additional charge based on declared value
Payout on a $1,200, 40 lb TV About $24 Repair, replace, or cash settle
Deductible None Often available at several levels
High-value items Must be listed separately Must be declared on a high-value inventory

What your homeowners policy does and doesn’t do

Many homeowners and renters policies cover belongings in transit only in limited circumstances, and often exclude damage caused by a third-party mover. Call your agent and ask two specific questions: is property in transit covered, and is mover-caused damage excluded? Get the answer in writing. The National Association of Insurance Commissioners publishes neutral consumer guidance if you want background before that call.

Documentation that makes a claim winnable

  1. Photograph every significant item, from multiple angles, before wrap.
  2. Photograph existing damage too — it prevents disputes in both directions.
  3. Keep the inventory sheet and note any pre-existing condition codes at pickup.
  4. Inspect at delivery before signing, and note damage on the delivery paperwork in writing on the spot.
  5. File the claim in writing within the deadline in your contract; interstate carriers must give you a claims process.

Where damage actually comes from

Mattresses and furniture fully padded and wrapped for a New Hampshire move
Most claims trace back to under-wrapping or poor tiering — both preventable before the truck moves.
  • Unpadded contact between two hard items on a moving truck.
  • Stretch wrap applied directly to a finished or leather surface for a long haul.
  • Under-filled boxes collapsing under load.
  • Improper tiering — heavy items stacked on light ones.
  • Doorway and stair contact where no protection was installed.

That’s why our crews pad and wrap indoors, protect every doorway and banister, and tier heavy-to-light. Prevention is cheaper than any claim, for both of us.

Frequently asked questions

Is moving insurance the same as valuation?
No. Valuation is the mover’s level of liability for your goods and is regulated as part of the moving contract. Insurance is a separate product sold by a licensed insurer.
What does 60 cents per pound mean?
It is the standard released value payout: the carrier owes 60 cents for each pound an article weighs, regardless of what the item is worth. It is minimal coverage and is included free.
How long do I have to file a moving damage claim?
Your contract states the deadline. Note any damage in writing on the delivery paperwork before signing, and file the written claim as soon as possible after delivery.

Sources & further reading

Moving is one of the few large purchases most people make with almost no way to inspect the product beforehand. That gap is exactly where bad operators live. These are the checks we’d run if we were the customer — and yes, run them on us too.

1. Verify the license before anything else

For interstate moves, look the company up by name or USDOT number in the FMCSA’s SAFER Company Snapshot. You’re checking that operating authority is active, that insurance is on file, and that the legal name matches the name on your paperwork. FMCSA’s Protect Your Move portal is the consumer front door for all of this.

2. Confirm carrier vs. broker, in writing

A broker sells your job to a carrier you have never spoken to. Brokers are legal and must be registered, but they must also disclose their status. If the company won’t say plainly which one it is, walk.

3. Insist on a survey, not a phone number

A price given over the phone in ninety seconds without seeing your home is a marketing number, not an estimate. Video surveys are fine and fast; no survey at all is a red flag.

Red flag Green flag
Large cash deposit demanded up front Small or no deposit; payment on delivery
Quote by phone with no inventory In-home or video survey with a written inventory
Blank or partially filled contract Complete written estimate and bill of lading before load
Generic name, no local address Verifiable local address, branded trucks, uniformed crew
Only 5-star reviews posted in one week Long, steady review history with named details
Won’t provide USDOT or insurance info Provides it without being pushed
Red flags vs. green flags

4. Read reviews for patterns, not scores

  • Look for reviews that name a crew, a town, and a specific item — those are real.
  • Check how the company replies to its negative reviews. That’s the service you’ll get if something breaks.
  • Cross-check Google against the BBB and FMCSA complaint history.
  • Distrust a perfect record. Every busy mover has had a bad day.

5. Understand what ‘insured’ actually means

“Licensed and insured” usually refers to cargo and liability coverage, which is not the same as the valuation coverage on your belongings. Ask for both: the carrier’s coverage, and the valuation option applied to your shipment. We break the difference down in our guide to moving insurance and valuation.

6–12. The rapid-fire checks

  1. Does the written estimate state crew size and estimated hours?
  2. Is travel time or a truck fee disclosed as a specific number?
  3. Are stairs, long carries, and shuttle charges spelled out, or discovered on the day?
  4. Who moves specialty items — the same crew, or a subcontractor?
  5. What’s the claims process, and what’s the filing deadline?
  6. Are the crew employees or day labor? Ask directly.
  7. Will the company put the arrival window and the total in one document you both sign?

A legitimate mover will answer all twelve of these without hesitating. That willingness is the actual product you’re buying.

Frequently asked questions

How do I check if a moving company is licensed?
Search the company name or USDOT number in the FMCSA SAFER Company Snapshot. Confirm the operating authority is active, insurance is on file, and the legal name matches your contract.
Should I pay a deposit to a moving company?
A small deposit to hold a date is normal. A large cash or wire deposit demanded up front is one of the most common signs of a moving scam.

Sources & further reading